Monday, 22 February 2016

Tools and raw materials used

1. Mulberry Silk:  
Pure mulberry silk yarn
source: google
The basic raw material used for the production of sarees is silk. Finely processed silk is purchased from Karnataka. The tough silk which comes from Karnataka grants lustre and smooth finish to Kanchipuram saree.

2. Zari:
Zari Thread
source: google
 Zari threads are incorporated in sarees in order to make them more attractive. Pure silver and gold is used to make zari thread. This thread is especially used for borders and pallu of saree.

3. Dye colours:
Dyeing silk
source: google
 
Dye colours are used for dyeing the silk yarn. This involves washing and degumming of the silk yarn. Most of the dyes are obtained for natural resources (flowers and vegetables) or artificially manufactured colour. The silk thread are soaked in the dye vats many times in order to achieve consistencyi the colour tones.

4. Copper Containers: 
Copper containers
source: google

Huge copper conainers are used in dyeing process. These containers are used to dye the boiling solution.

5. Rice starch :
Rice starch
source: google

Starch is extracted by boiling rice. The extracted solution is locally called as Kanji. Yarn is dipped in the kanji to obtain stiffness.

6. Spinning wheel:
silk converted into threads
source: google

 This is the hand cranking spinning wheel which is locally called as "Mara ratinam". It is used to spin the silk yarn to spools and spindles. These spindles are used in weaving process for weft weaving.
Spindle used in weft weaving
source: google
 7. Fly shuttle:
Fly shuttle
source: google
   
It is mainly used to process the weft. The spindles are inserted in fly shuttle while weaving. These shuttles are made up of whole bamboo pole.

8. Warp Beam:  The length of yarn is wound on warp beam which is later loaded into the loom.

9. Jacquard machine:
Jacquard machine
source: google
   
The improvised equipments such as jala and jacquard are used to produce the designs for borders and pallu.

10. Warping Machine:
Warping Machine
source: google
     
Warping machine are used to prepare warp beam.

11. Handloom:
Handloom industry
source: google

Looms of Kanchipuram ranging from traditional to modern. Traditional looms can be operated manually and modern looms are upgraded with motor pedals.

12. Punch Cards: The design is punched on the punch cards and then the pattern is made on the                                        saree.
Punch cards are used in jacquard looms
source: google


Tuesday, 2 February 2016

A new look of Kanjeevaram sarees


Kanjeevaram at wedding
source: Goggle

Traditional way of draping kanjeevaram sarees
source: Google


 Kanjeevaram Motifs
peacock motif
source: Google

Mayilkann (peacock eye) motif
source: Google

Temple borders
source: Google

Saree inspired from Raja Ravi Varma's painting
source: Google




Origin and History

source: google
The town of Kancheepuram is also popularly known across the country as Silk city as the economy of the town is mainly based on the people weaving silk sarees. The weavers from this town are believed to have settled at least 400 years back and they stamped a fortunate opinion across the globe as the producers of excellent silk sarees in the country.
Kanjeevaram sarees are made in Silk because this is believed to be the most loved fabric of Lord Vishnu. According to Hindu mythology, Kanchi silk weavers are the descendants of Sage Markanda, the master weaver of gods who is supposed to have woven tissue from lotus fibre.

weaving communities - Devangas and saligars weaving silk
when silk trade was started.
source: google
A famous king of the Chola dynasty ruled Kancheepuram between the years 985 and 1014, who took an initiative of silk trade. It was during the reign of Krishna-deva Raya, when the famous weaving communities of Andhra Pradesh, the Devangas and Saligars, migrated to Kancheepuram. The two weaving communities were exclusively acknowledged for their skills at weaving silk. Thus, occurred the historical migration of the entire silk industry in the 15th century, to this city.

Monday, 1 February 2016

Kanjeevaram Silk Sarees - magnificent creation of craftsmen

source: google
 Kanjeevaram sarees are traditionally woven silk sarees from the small temple town called Kancheepuram in Tamil Nadu, India. Its a magnificent creation of the craftsmen living in a small town, Kanchi. The silk used in creation of Kanjeevaram saree is extremely fine as well as durable and is one of the most popular forms of silk in the state of Tamil Nadu. These are woven naturally and distinguished by their wide contrasting borders. The silk sarees have become an integral part of occasions like weddings and celebrations, apart from luxury it talks, it is also known for the rich weave and gold borders. the bold and bright color of the saree is very much preferred by the south Indian women, whose trousseau remains incomplete without this amazing outfit.
Kanjeevaram sarees of India make use of numerous colored threads. Adding to the attraction of the sarees is the exquisite and elaborate zari (a form of embroidery) work. The motifs used in an Kanjeevaram sarees are heavily based on the temples, palaces and paintings. However one can see scenes from great epics, Ramayana and Mahabharata are being used as motifs.Tribal designs as well as contemporary patterns are also seen.


Reason for choosing Kanjeevaram

source: google
I went to the temple town of Kancheepuram in the south Indian state of Tamil Nadu, India, famed as much for its tradition of handmade silk sarees, as for its majestic temples. People came to shop for handloom silk sarees that this town is famous for. So, I wanted to understand the silk saree, its designs, production process, raw materials and its uniqueness.